DIY Box Blind for Deer Hunting

For years I have either hunted from the ground in a portable blind, from a treestand or even from friends box blinds. This year I decided to do something different and build my own box blind. I am a welder by trade and most of what I weld is small and not in need of alot of fitting. Thus I do very little structural work. So I needed help. I searched the internet for information reguarding building a box blind and found out one thing......most want you to buy their diagrams. Now don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with that. But I decided to attempt building my own. I had bought the material over a course of a few weeks, a little here and a little there. Trying to determine what I thought I might need. But I will do my best to give you a list later on. The following is my first attempt at building a 4x8 deer hunting box blind.

the runners for sled on box blindFirst I had to decide if I wanted an elevated blind or one close to the ground. Knowing where this blind was going to be placed I opted for the close to the ground version. So my beginning point was two 4x4 runners. Since I was making an 8 foot long blind I had to trim the runners. Itrimmed them long enough to leave about 6 inches sticking out on each end.

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floor frame of box blind The next step was laying out the floor pan. I used a full sheet of 4x8x3/4 inch plywood. On that I laid 2 8 foot 2x4's and fit 7 2x4's between them. I nailed the floor frame together but didn't add the plywood yet.

attaching floor to runners for deer blind Prior to adding the plywood I attached the floor pan to the runners. To do this I used Hurricane Rafter Ties. I put these ties on all but two of the 2x4's. Each end got one on each side of the runner while only one went on the inner boards. I did alternate them from inside the runner to the outside of it however.

attaching floor plate to frame of box blind The next step was attaching the floor plate to the framework. As you can see, this is where child labor pays off. Seriously though, my son was all over helping me out on this project. Notice that we have placed the blind onto the trailer we would be transporting it with. Simply use a chalk line and mark where to place screws.

front and side wall frame on box blindThis shows the front and one side wall added. First I had to decide how wide to make viewing windows, what height to put them at and if I was going to have side windows. The bottom of the shooting windows is 40" high. This works out well for kids and adults considering we use adjustable chairs. Notice the side wall doesn't come all the way to the edge. (click picture for inset) Only the front and back walls go the entire length. Also notice that the front wall is slightly higher. This is going to allow me to have a pitch to the roof.

back wall of box blindI decided the back wall would have only one window. This was determined by where I was placing the stand. Behind where I am placing it is thick vines and cover so there is very little chance of having a shot.

entry wall for the deer blind I decided to have the door on the right side of the blind (looking out of the front) as this is the direction I will be coming through the woods from. I will however be making some changes to this doorway, such as adding a window, very soon.

putting on the skin of deer box blindI began skinning the blind out the next morning. Using 3/8" plywood for this as I wasn't sure what I really wanted. This picture might give you an idea of the depth of the stand. Once you begin to skin it out, you will get a good idea of how rigid and sturdy the blind becomes.

front view of skin on box blindSkinning the front was fairly easy with the lighter plywood. I placed it against the frame and ran a few screws into it. Then I went to the inside and marked the window openings. I unscrewed the plywood and cut the openings. This was done for all windows and doors. Not long after I finished this piece, we strapped it down and drove it up to the lease.

front view of box blind I added the roof once I got to the lease. Using 3 treated 1x4's as the cross supports I added tin. Buying the tin in 12 foot pieces and having the proper cutoff wheel for the circular saw made this job easy. I simply cut them in 6 foot sections and it left me with a foot of overhang on both sides.

shot of doorway on right of box blindThe door I added is just temporary right now. Once done it will have extra support and a lock on it. As will the windows. As you can see, I did in fact buy some paint for the stand and decided to let my kids decorate it. Once it is put in place and the deer get used to it, color will matter little.

inside ceiling of box blindAs you can see from the inside, there are plenty of gaps to be filled. One thing I want to avoid is coming back next year and having to argue with wasps over whose blind this is.

For information sake, I built this blind in about 10 hours. Working on it until midnight on a Friday night and continuing on Saturady. Naturally this is not the ideal way to make a blind. But this blind is extremely sturdy and come winter, if it was like last years, it will keep my kids warm and comfy. After they get completely hooked on hunting, then they get kicked out in the cold and the ol' man can enjoy the comfort and satifaction of building his blind.

Still not sure if a box blind is right for you? Or perhaps you like moving around. Try using a portable pop up blind Easy to set up and easy to transport are two of the best reasons to use one. I hunt out of one every year as do my kids. And the best feature? Price. The box blind I made cost around $300 dollars and time. You can step into a pop up for under a hundred.

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